Monday 9 October – We greet Crete on our feet.

A big walking day today.  After hitting the supermarket early and stocking up, then having breakfast on our balcony, we set off to explore Heraklion.  First a look at the Fountains of Morosini and Bembo, then up on to the old city walls, first built by the Byzantines in the early centuries AD to keep out the Arabs.  That didn’t work and the Arabs took Crete in 824 and expanded the walls to stop the Byzantines coming back.  That didn’t work either and the Byzantines were back in 961.  The Venetians took over in the early 13^th century and did more work on them, however the Ottomans took over parts of Crete in 1645 and placed Heraklion under siege for 21 years before it finally succumbed. The Ottomans kept the walls intact and, although there was some damage from the German bombing during WWII, much of the wall is still intact and it remains one of the best examples of Venetian fortification in Europe.  And while walking the walls, it was interesting to note that at least some of the locals would prefer refugees to us (memo Peter Dutton: why don’t you come over here and get the views of those who are really affected by the refugee tragedy before deciding our views for us?).

Then to the magnificent Saint Minas Cathedral – with its breathtaking frescoes and beautiful chandeliers.  It is fairly new – built between 1862 and 1895 and has a capacity of 8,000 people.  The frescoes, being so recent and intact and covering every square inch of the dome, ceilings and upper walls, give you an idea of how such great churches as the 6th century Hagia Sophia in Istanbul would have looked when they were new. Then next door to the small but charming Ayios Malteos of Sinaites, now also serving as a gallery for icons and other artwork dating from the 17^th century.

Close by was the daily Heraklion street market, selling everything from seafood, fresh meat, cheeses, fruit and vegetables, clothing, leather goods to souvenirs and linen.  We bought some seafood and vegies then dropped them back at the apartment before heading back out to the Koules Venetian Fortress (which our apartment overlooks).  This squat 16^th century fortress was key to resisting the Ottoman siege, however after its capture it became an Ottoman prison for Cretan rebels.  It now contains wonderful displays of cannons and cannon balls, a great presentation of pottery discovered in the nearby ocean and a small cinema with continuous historic films.  We climbed to the ramparts for 360^o views of the ocean, harbour and the city (including our apartment).  After walking part of the way along the breakwater we turned back towards the town and up the hill to the Church of Agios Titus, originally a Byzantine church dating back to 961AD. It was converted to a Roman Catholic church by the Venetians, then into a mosque by the Ottomans (who also rebuilt it after the devastating 1856 earthquake) and has now reverted to its Eastern Orthodox roots.  It contains the skull relic of St Titus, now housed inside a glass case which unfortunately looks like a snow-dome.  Then back to our apartment for a well-earned rest and dinner.

Tomorrow – on the bus to the ancient sites of Gortyna and Phaestos.