After a good night’s sleep we set off this morning on the
short walk to the Hrysopolitissa Basilica and St Paul’s Pillar. On the way we passed excavations just off our
own street of a Roman theatre and renovations to an Ottoman bathhouse. The Hrysopolitissa Basilica site is amazing: there
are a number of tall columns that still define the apse as well as floor
mosaics that indicate where the narthex and nave would have been. The footprint of the original 4th
century basilica (destroyed during Arab raids in 653) is so big that it dwarfs
the quite substantial church that was built on just one corner of the remains
in the 13th century, the Again Kyriaki church, which remains in use
today. The site is very well presented;
there are raised walkways all the way around the site with explanatory signs at
every juncture. Adjacent to the original basilica is a stone pillar where,
according to local legend, St Paul was whipped 39 times for evangelising on
Cyprus before he finally convinced his tormentor, Governor Segius Paulus, to
convert. He must have been good under
pressure!
We then continued on, enjoying a short walk along the ocean
promenade at Kato Paphos, to the Paphos Archaeological Park, which encompasses
the ancient city of Paphos, the capital city of Cyprus in antiquity (founded in
the 4th century BC). Amazing
archaeological work has been done over the 14.5 hectare site, especially in
uncovering, displaying and protecting a breathtaking assembly of mosaics from
Roman times in the early centuries AD.
Unfortunately a series of earthquakes ravaged Pathos and its capital
city status was lost to Salamis, on the eastern coast, during the 4th
century AD. We spend several hours wandering the ruins, in the scorching sun,
viewing the theatre (where John took the opportunity to practise his oratory),
the agora, a number of Roman houses where outstanding mosaic floors have been
located (and protected by fully enclosing them in new “houses”). We also spent
time at the Saranta Kolones Fortress (40 columns), built by the Byzantine
rulers in the 7th century but destroyed by an earthquake in 1222 and
subsequently abandoned.
While at the agora, we observed a team of archaeologists scanning
the agora (which covers about one hectare), with what we assume to be a laser
scanner, to determine what lies beneath.
They had tape measures and line markers spread out and were patiently
wheeling the scanner over the ground, with each pass covering an area of
perhaps 50 metres by just 30 centimetres, methodically moving the markers
between each pass to ensure that every inch was covered! It would be interesting to return here in ten
years or so to see how the site is presented then.
We then trudged back to our apartment, had some lunch and a
rest and again ventured forth to a nearby site to view the rock-cut tombs,
underground caverns from the Hellenistic-Roman period – burial chambers
associated with the Saints Lambrianos and Misitikos. Then just a few metres further on to the
Christian catacombs, originally the burial site of the seven Jewish Machabee
brothers who were martyred around 174 BC.
It is thought that the space became a synagogue in Roman times. The entrance is marked by a large collection
of cloth rags tied to a large tree outside the tomb; a pagan practice that is
continued by Christian visitors today.
Then back to our digs for a well-earned dip in the pool and
a dinner of local seafood and fresh fruit.
All in all, a fascinating day. So
much to see, take in and learn.
Tomorrow: start with the Tombs of the Kings and then visit
some other historical sites in the Paphos area. And hopefully a swim in the
Mediterannean!
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