Friday, 22 September 2017

Friday 22 Sept – MB: Malta Bene

Malta is beautiful! The sandstone buildings contrasting with the blue sky above and the ocean blue creates a magical scene.  Traffic, both vehicular and pedestrian, is relatively light and the locals are friendly and helpful.  And although Valletta and its surrounds are relatively compact, there is a general aura of spaciousness about it all.  We wandered up to the centre of Valletta and bought our Malta Heritage Passes, which give us access to all the major attractions, and then set off in earnest.  First stop was the Grand Master’s Palace, built from 1574 to house the Grand Master of the Knights Hospitallers of St John.  Under British rule it was the governor’s palace and it now houses the office of the presidents of Malta, although sections are available for access by the public, including the State Rooms which we visited – very opulent, with magnificent art works, tapestries and frescoed ceilings. We also visited the Armoury with its impressive display of over 5,000 articles of war – suits of armour, crossbows, swords and pikes, firearms and cannons.

After a brief stop for our elevenses we continued on to Fort Elmo, which guarded the entrance to the Marsamxett and the Grand Harbours from 1552 until recent times.  The many rooms, including the prison cells, the St Anne Chapel and the barracks around the main quadrangle have been converted to a stunning National War Museum, tracing the history of Malta, particularly its military history, from antiquity up to World War II.  We were also able to see the George Cross, the highest British Honours award to civilians, awarded to the people of Malta by King George VI on 15 April 1942, at the height of the siege of Malta by the German and Italian forces.  Malta withstood a monumental air and naval barrage over several months; in just five weeks in March and April 1942 the Luftwaffe dropped 6,500 tons of bombs on Malta, almost as much as was dropped on the whole of Britain at the height of the Battle of Britain in September 1940.  Much of the population was forced to live underground and they were perilously short of food and water (supplies had to be brought in by British submarines), but they did not surrender.  The presentation of the George Cross is also commemorated in a plaque on the wall of the Palace.

The fort also provides stunning views across the harbour from the fortified walls and after leaving the fort we stopped to climb to the top of a bell tower erected by the British government to commemorate all those lost in World War II.  After lunch at a nearby café we caught the ferry across to Vittoriosa, an ancient city adorned with beautiful churches.  We visited the Malta Maritime Museum, depicting Malta’s maritime history and displaying many large models of sea craft down through the centuries.

Next a bus ride to Paolo, then a long walk to Tarxien to visit the ancient temples extant there.  They are the most complex and intricately decorated of the several prehistoric temple sites on Malta, erected between 3600BC and 2500BC and later used by Bronze Age inhabitants as a cremation site.  Some of the limestone blocks used in the construction of the several temples were up to two metres high, a metre wide and two-thirds of a metre thick.  It would have been an enormous challenge to shape them and move them into place.  The whole site, approximately half an acre, is protected by a huge, brilliantly-engineered shade sail. 

Another bus ride, back to Valletta, then a bit of a walk back to our digs, stopping en route to ogle at the Sanctuary Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, a beautiful, large, circular church with a high, wide dome reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome.


Tomorrow – more of Valletta and surrounds.










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