Sunday 24 Sept – Ruins in the Rain

Once again we walked the kilometre to the bus terminal, however this time it was in light drizzle – the first rain we’ve seen on our travels.  (We can’t complain; Malta has very low rainfall – the average for the month of September, over the past 100 years, is only 43mm and Malta relies on three desalination plants to supplement the meagre rainfall.)  On the No 74 bus for the thirty minute drive across the island to the Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Temples, on the southern coast. These temples, dating from 3600-3000BC are claimed to be the oldest free-standing stone structures in the world, pre-dating the pyramids of Egypt by more than 500 years (although the stone houses built by the Aborigines near Lake Condah, Victoria may prove to be about 9000 years old when more archaeological work is done there).  The temples sit atop sea cliffs with a view across to Filfla, a small uninhabited island that may have had spiritual significance in neolithic times.  The only permanent man-made structure on the island was a small chapel, built inside a cave in 1343 and since destroyed by the 1856 earthquake, which also sank part of the island.

 On arrival, we watched an informative and entertaining 4D film (3D plus scents and a bit of moisture) explaining how the temples were originally constructed, utilised, abandoned, covered by the elements, rediscovered in the 1880s and restored.   Hagar Qim, the first temple we visited (and furthest from the sea) has a megalith weighing over 20 tonnes.  A 700 metre walk downhill (in the rain and wind) took us to Mnajdra, comprising three adjoining temples, with their main features embodying significant solar alignment (such as only allowing narrow beams of light to enter on the days of the summer and winter solstice).  Many of the megaliths supporting the temples have scores of shallow holes made in them and it is speculated that these were used as calendars or crude counting devices.

Perhaps the gods were angry at out trespass as the heavens truly opened and we were drenched.  On the long walk back up the path we encountered a local resident, but we managed to outrun him. We decided not to continue on to our next target, the Blue Grotto, but waited by the side of the road for the return bus and made our way back to our apartment to dry out (ourselves and our clothes).  A short but rewarding day’s exploration.

Incidentally, last evening we felt like we were under air attack as jet fighters repeatedly made passes overhead at low altitude.  It appears that this weekend is the 25^th Malta International Air Show.  It is unfortunate that it would have been marred by the rain and wind this morning, however the weather cleared later this afternoon and we were again assailed by noisy, low-flying aircraft.

Tomorrow – off by bus and ferry to the other part of Malta – the island of Gozo.