After another leisurely breakfast we made our way to the
train station to board the crowded one-carriage diesel train to Noto, a UNESCO
world heritage town, described as the finest baroque town in Sicily. Unfortunately
the old town is a one kilometre-plus walk from the station, all uphill. Noto
has ancient origins, but what we saw today is the result of reconstruction
after a devastating earthquake in 1693 that completely destroyed the town. It was rebuilt on a wider and more secure site
with wide streets, using limestone that creates a wonderful almost-golden colour. The architecture of all the buildings is on a
grand scale.
Pride of place goes to St Nicholas
Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Myra, completed in 1776 after several
decades of construction. Unfortunately its dome collapsed during a 1996
thunderstorm, however when it was rebuilt the entire building was scrubbed and
cleaned up – a process that took a decade.
We visited all the noteworthy churches (those that were open, anyway),
as well as the Teatro Tina di Lorenzo, built in 1883 and named for the great
Sicilian soprano of the same name. The
oblong theatre, though relatively small, is ornate and beautiful, with five
levels of private boxes rising to the very high ceiling. We enjoyed sitting in the plush seats,
imagining Tina performing for us.
Apparently it is the only theatre in Sicily that still maintains a
continuous program of drama presentations.
We took respite from the hot
sun by lunching on pizza and salad under the shade of some large trees, then
strolled around the town a bit longer before making our way back down the hill
for the train ride home. Another
enchanting day. Tomorrow – we
reluctantly leave Syracuse and catch the bus to Catania, our last stop in
Sicily.
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